“The Right Cure” – Review of The Restaurant by Kroun in STATUS
”North Zealand has a new gastronomic beacon. Kurhotel Skodsborg opened ‘The Restaurant by Kroun’ in late January with a kitchen that doesn’t compromise on anything and must be a candidate for a Michelin star,” writes Editor in Chief, Nils Finderup in the March edition of the magazine STATUS.
Nils Finderup awards The Restaurant by Kroun six stars out of six possible.
Nils Finderup elaborates:
Since 2012 Kurhotel Skodsborg has spent millions of kroners on bringing the old hotel up to international standard. They have succeeded with the spa, the meeting facilities, the hotel itself and the bar. Now it’s time to heighten the gastronomic quality and for this purpose star Chef Erik Kroun has been brought in. With a past at Michelin-starred restaurants Kong Hans and Søllerød Kro he knows what it takes to fulfill the ambitions; and he seems to have had free rein to create his own restaurant, which, quite appropriately, bears the name ‘The Restaurant by Kroun’.
The restaurant is beautiful, high-ceilinged, a pleasant sound level, round tables and chandeliers of American antlers. The brown and white colour scheme reminds you of A.O.C., and that is not the worst restaurant to be compared to. Elegant cutlery, glasses and polished carafes from Danish design houses like Georg Jensen and Holmegaard testify that all details are in place.
But we are, of course, mainly here for the food. Guests are invited to choose between five courses at DKK 700 or eight courses at DKK 900, the latter menu offering the option of a wine menu at the same price.
However, you can upgrade the menu to ‘Full House” at DKK 2,000, which includes aperitif and water as well as coffee and sweets upon the biggest menu with wines. That’s the one we choose. From the outset the style is Nordic, and they know their business. The dishes arrive in a steady flow, and they demonstrate diversity in the kitchen which is only found in the greatest of kitchens. My co-diner is a trained chef, and rarely has she nodded so often in approval of a menu. One of the high-lights is something as extraordinary as an egg yolk with grilled greens and a sauce of cod roe.
“It’s no big deal to grill a steak of the best quality but inventing a composition like this one is what our trade is all about,” she concludes.
All Bull’s Eyes
The other dishes entail main ingredients like mussels, sweetbreads, Danish black lobster, cheeses and sorbet on goat cheese. All is pure perfection, but our favourite is a unique fish dish with cod, butter sauce, three varieties of roe and roasted Jerusalem artichokes with parsley. The cod has been pan-fried to perfection and enters in a perfect symbiosis with the different textures from roe and vegetables, just as the sauce unites all the impressions. We also have to highlight a juicy pigeon, which, demonstrating the self-confidence of the kitchen, is served with feet. That is a novelty but delightfully unpretentious.
The wines are a story in their own right. Our sommelier is Restaurant Manager Martin Troelsen who among his former employees count Kong Hans and Marchal at D’Angleterre, and he succeeds in catching the spirit in Erik Kroun’s dishes with one bull’s eye after the other. His wines never outdo the dishes but supplement and improve the overall experience. Even the harsh PSI vintage 2012 tames the dramatic pigeon feet with beetroots and star anise. We round off the dinner with great coffee, home-made cakes, madeleines and several varieties of chocolate containing up to overwhelming 100 %.
Admittedly DKK 2,000 is in the higher end of the scale but so is the quality in North Zealand’s new gastronomic beacon. Seen in the rotating light of going all the way, ambitions, abilities it’s an experience we can only award six stars.
We invite you to read the entire review in the magazine STATUS.
Or read more about the menu – and book your table – at The Restaurant by Kroun.